Sarah Willingham: J’accuse.

You can judge a man by the company he keeps. So what is Raymond Blanc, distinguished chef and successful businessman, doing in The Restaurant with the grating and graceless Sarah Willingham?

I have previous with Willingham. It dates back a few years to the time she became Managing Director of the once great South London provider of takeaway curry: The Bombay Bicycle Club. When I lived in Putney, Hammersmith and then Battersea, it was something of a love affair for me. I couldn't get enough of the 'BBC's' majestic murgh dhansak ramro, the glorious onion bhajis or any one of a dozen fine and flawless dishes. I waxed lyrical, praised them, promoted them: I was not just a happy customer, I was an ecstatic one. I was spreading the joy. I'd tell people: you cannot do better.

And then Willingham took over in a self-confessed, ambitious landgrab with the aim of expansion. Within months, standards started to slip. The once super-prompt delivery became almost-late, perfect curries became merely pretty good and they started sending less generous portions of inferior of mango chutney. On more than one occasion they claimed to have run out of pilau rice and I think an Indian takeaway actually has to try pretty damn hard to do that.

I stuck with the Bombay Bicycle Club for a while, ordered less frequently, but my passion was dulled. It died completely when one day they sent a stone cold meal. I emailed Willingham (her email address was on the back of the menu) and she didn't respond. I never phoned for food again.

So when I see the unspeakable Willingham on The Restaurant sneering and criticising the (admittedly sometimes hopeless) hopefuls, I get a bit angry. This is the woman who destroyed one of the few brands and restaurants I have ever truly loved. She simply doesn't deserve to be in a position where she's passing judgment on others: physician, heal thyself.

She is the worst type of unimaginative, cost-cutting, 'process first' MBA who thinks that paying customers won't notice the penny-pinching and are willing to settle for less. Like the wife-beater, she thinks we'll stay because there's nowhere else to go. The balance sheet looked healthier, it's reported, and she's sold her shares in the business. Good for her. But she chose mediocrity over excellence. On her business plans 'customer loyalty' is probably a 'nice to have'. I don't think that's the Raymond Blanc way and it isn't sound advice for a budding restaurant owner.

7 Responses to "Sarah Willingham: J’accuse."

November 10, 2008 at 8:25 am

Sue said:

*applauds*

Though it scares me how many of the people on The Restaurant (I nearly wrote The Apprentice there…) have absolutely no clue about how to make money, or apparently even that they should be making money – particularly, this last series, the chap who’d been regional manager for some chain, and ended up having 90%+ of his turnover as food costs.

And I’ll give her this: she spoke up for the people I wanted to win (won’t say who in case you’re still watching the series), who were kind of improbable in both foodie and business senses, but who were fun in a way that none of the others were.

November 10, 2008 at 8:27 am

Sue said:

Actually, I just realised what it is I really hate about her: it’s the lip gloss. Why do girls do that? yuck.

November 10, 2008 at 12:44 pm

Will - ArenaFlowers.com said:

Ouch!
A stinger from DW there.

I used to love Bombay Bicycle.
Stopped using them when moved away. Top quality scran in my experience. Not sure if I was pre Willingham though.

A housemate of a friend used to ride a moped for the Putney branch. One of their drivers said to be a total loon. Spent all his money on his moped, then slept rough, chained to his moped. Allegedly. Haha. Good / bizarre story, anyway.


November 10, 2008 at 12:49 pm

Will - ArenaFlowers.com said:

PS Sue, surely worse than the lip gloss is this: http://o.aolcdn.com/photo-hub/news_gallery/5/7/579049/1223037262483.JPEG



November 11, 2008 at 12:58 pm

harriet said:

bon chance to both dan and sue when you apply for the next series of the restaurant – obviously being better qualified than any of the applicants, or indeed one of the judges!

November 11, 2008 at 1:12 pm

Dan Wilson said:

Harriet,

I think you misread my points. I am in no way better qualified than any of the hopefuls. Indeed: bonne chance to them.

My criticism is of a ‘judge’ who favours mediocrity rather than distinctiveness and excellence. See the three brands she has been in charge of The Real Greek, Tootsies and The Bombay Bicycle Club. I think she represents something that anyone passionate about food and enjoying food should be wary of.

August 5, 2009 at 11:34 am

Tanya King said:

I too was a regular at The Bombay Bicycle Club for many years. I recall post take over, Sarah Willingham inviting the regulars to discuss a refurbishment of the restaurant in Balham to get our views! Much appreciated it was too as you know how teritorial we get about our much lived ‘local’! I also once had a meal where the service was a tad slower than usual. Normally I would not have bothered but as I had met Sarah and she solicited this feedback by putting her name on the menu (Very brave I have to say) I called her just to let her know. A bunch of flowers arrived the next day with a note of apology! So top marks for customer service from my experience. And the food quality remained excellent till it was sold a few years later. T